Independent menswear: Gunther, Henrik Vibskov, and Arturo Obegero forge their paths

Independent menswear: Gunther, Henrik Vibskov, and Arturo Obegero forge their paths

Translated by

Roberta HERRERA

Asserting their presence in the industry, three menswear brands brought forth their distinct creative visions during the recent Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Despite advocating for aesthetics and universes that are entirely different, French brand Gunther, Danish designer Henrik Vibskov


Gunther, Spring/Summer 2024 – Gunther

Gunther sets its sights abroad

French designer Naomi Gunther took the leap into creating her own premium menswear label in 2019, just a few months before the outbreak of the pandemic. “The brand has been in existence for four years, although it feels like we have only experienced two,” smiled the young creative, who honed her skills at ParsonsFashionNetwork.com

Positioned as a streetwear brand with hints of tailoring savoir-faire, Gunther focuses on short production cycles and proudly embraces the “Made in France” ethos, establishing its creative and production studio in Paris. Additionally, the French capital has been the venue for all their presentations outside the official fashion week

Such was the case with her latest show, held at the Roméo Club on Boulevard Saint-Germain, which recreated a spectacle akin to a 5 p.m. discotheque, with all guests surrounding the runway. Titled “Walk Of Fame

The creative designer aims to solidify the brand’s identity as “a menswear label designed by a woman,” envisioning a male wardrobe that can also be worn by women in unique ways. This approach has earned Gunther significant commercial traction abroad. The Parisian label has been available at a multi-brand store in Dubai Mall for the past three seasons and participated in a salon in Seoul last February with the support of Mode in France, successfully entering the Korean market through the DFD club. Gunther is currently in discussions with Amazon Fashion

In France, the independent brand sells its collections online through its website and the Printemps


Henrik Vibskov, Spring/Summer 2024 – Henrik Vibskov

Henrik Vibskov’s 20-year journey in Paris

Within the sunny courtyard of Lycée Henri-IV, a summer boxing ring situated just steps away from the Pantheon, Danish designer Henrik Vibskov celebrated his 20th anniversary in France with a unique concept. Accompanied by a master of ceremonies who doubled as a boxing announcer, introducing participants for each match while providing the musical accompaniment, the silhouettes of the Danish designer (the only Scandinavian representative on the official Paris Fashion Week

With over 80% of the collection crafted from certified materials, free from toxic dyes or prints, the collection titled “The Unboxing Waltz Tutorial” contemplated the notion of “the box as a vessel that safeguards precious items for a limited time” until their reception or unveiling. For the Central Saint Martins

Beyond the conceptual framework, the presentation showcased original prints in the form of frayed textures or exotic bird motifs in knitwear, oversized trench coats, loose-fitting yellow and green checkered suits, lightweight cream-toned technical fabrics paired with bermuda shorts, three-quarter summer coats, and short waterproof jackets with gathered cuffs. Additionally, all-black looks featured prominently, including a sheer dress combined with a sporty jacket and a voluminous hat. The words “forever” and “out of deliver” found their place, becoming tonal prints on dresses and knit sweaters.

Moreover, the collection for the upcoming Spring/Summer season featured a collaboration with Scandinavian jewelry designer Vibe Harsløf, renowned for her previous work with brands like FacetasmSoulland


Arturo Obegero, Spring/Summer 2024 – Arturo Obegero

Arturo Obegero’s surfer fantasy

Remaining true to his DNA, Arturo Obegero once again drew inspiration from his homeland to present his latest collection, a “romantic fantasy,” at the Palais de Tokyo

“My hometown of Tapia de Casariego, located in the Principality of Asturias, keeps this sporting tradition alive. Every summer, I’ve grown up watching surfers, including my brother Pedro, who runs his own surf school,” explained the designer, emphasizing the hypnotic effect of the waves—an effect that he ended up recreated through undulating draped tops, sparkling embroidery resembling sea foam on black transparencies, and asymmetrical voluminous collars.

The collection employed silhouettes that enveloped the body or created abstract forms, offering Obegero’s personal take on tailoring and reimagining classic short black dresses as well as form-fitting lace jumpsuits—an increasingly recognizable signature of the Asturian designer’s repertoire. Not to be forgotten are his trademark relaxed open-necked shirts, loose-fitting tailored pants, and long gloves as accessories of alluring sophistication.

After graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martins in 2018, the Spanish creative, now based in Paris, took his first steps within the teams of Maison Lanvin
 

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